In the autumn of 1600 two armies met at Sekigahara to decide who would hold power after Toyotomi Hideyoshi. One day in the fog gave Tokugawa Ieyasu a decisive victory and put him on the road to the shogunate.
The route follows the campaign from the siege of Fushimi to the castles of Mino, the field of Sekigahara, the fall of Mitsunari's Sawayama and his burial in Kyoto, and ends at Edo Castle in 1603. Dates inside Japan's old calendar are labelled as such.
In January 1868 Japan's young emperor was declared ruler in fact as well as name, ending more than 250 years of Tokugawa shogunate. The last shogun's supporters did not give up quietly. For eighteen months a civil war rolled north from the edge of Kyoto to Edo, into the mountains of Aizu and finally to a star-shaped fortress on Hokkaido, where a short-lived breakaway republic made its last stand.
The route follows that war in six places, all of them visitable: the battlefield at Toba, Edo Castle, the hill of Ueno, Aizu's castle and the hill where its teenage soldiers died, and Goryōkaku. Dates are given in the Western calendar, converted from the Japanese lunar dates used at the time.
