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Spanish Affair: Seville to the Basque Coast

Spanish Affair (Ocho apellidos vascos) was filmed in Seville and on the Basque coast, from the Triana bridge to a wedding chapel above the flysch. Rafa, a Seville bartender, follows Amaia north to the fictional town of Argoitia and pretends to be Antxón, the fiancé her father expects.

Contains major story spoilers.

Mapped by Mapped Chronicles editors6 locationsCountries: SpainCities: SevilleGPX

Timeline & locations

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  1. Spanish Affair opens in Seville, where Amaia's friends have brought her for a hen party. Still in her sevillana dress, she takes offence at Rafa's comedy routine about Basques; she is thrown out, they kiss in the street and she falls asleep in his flat. At the end she returns to the same city to find him. The Seville shoot took place near the Puente de Triana, the iron bridge over the Guadalquivir finished in 1852 and the oldest of its kind in Spain.

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    Location precision: The film only places the Seville shoot near the Puente de Triana; the opening tablao and the closing carriage ride are not tied to one spot.

    Visitor guidance: The bridge is open to pedestrians; the Triana bank of the river is a short walk from the old town.

    Sources

  2. The film's first flamenco scene was not shot in Andalusia. The Seville bar called Los Muelles is really in Mondragón, in the Centro Al Andalus, the centre that stood in for a tablao. Inside, Amaia sits in her sevillana dress and listens to Rafa's jokes about Basques until she snaps. Mondragón, a Gipuzkoa town, is known for the Mondragon Corporation, the world's largest worker cooperative. The centre is a cultural hall, not a tavern, so the stop is the building itself.

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    Sources

  3. Rafa follows Amaia to Argoitia, the fictional Basque town assembled from several real places in the Basque Country and Navarra. Her house is the caserío Aspain-Txiki in Leitza, a town in the Leizarán valley in Navarra, used for Rafa's arrival and for the plan to pass him off as Antxón. She kicks him out, and when he lands in trouble she bails him out on one condition — he must pretend to be Antxón, the fiancé her father Koldo expects. The house is a private home, so admire it from the lane.

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    Sources

  4. The coastal scenes were shot in Getaria, including the afternoon on Koldo's boat. Rafa, Amaia, Merche and Koldo take it out to fish for bonito. Getaria is still an important inshore fishing port, and the town is the birthplace of Juan Sebastián Elcano and Cristóbal Balenciaga. Across the harbour, the San Antón headland is nicknamed El Ratón de Getaria because its silhouette looks like a mouse.

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    Visitor guidance: The harbour is a working fishing port; the old town and the San Antón headland are a short walk away.

    Sources

  5. Zumaia is where the film's independence march was shot, and the San Juan fountain is the spot where Rafa gets carried away, megaphone in hand. He has already shown that he cannot speak Basque, yet he ends up leading the procession through the streets. The town stands where the Urola and Narrondo rivers meet the Cantabrian Sea, and the fountain is a public fountain in the middle of the town.

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    Visitor guidance: The fountain is a public fountain in the town centre; the Urola estuary is a short walk away.

    Sources

  6. The film's wedding scene is at the San Telmo hermitage, a small chapel above Itzurun beach and the flysch cliffs. Koldo insists the wedding be held here, and during confession Rafa tells Father Ignacio that he is really from Seville. Amaia says yes at the altar, and Rafa flees back to Seville. The chapel was a filming location in 2013 and its first written records date from 1540. It is dedicated to the patron saint of sailors and still stands above the beach.

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    Visitor guidance: The chapel stands above Itzurun beach; the flysch cliffs continue along the coast.

    Sources

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