Real Journeys · History
Amundsen and Scott: The Race to the South Pole
In 1910 two expeditions set out for the bottom of the world. Roald Amundsen's Norwegians, masters of skis and sled dogs, reached the South Pole on 14 December 1911. Robert Falcon Scott's party arrived on 17 January 1912, 34 days later, to find a Norwegian tent already standing. Amundsen sent his news from Hobart; Scott's party of five died on the return journey.
The route follows both men from Cardiff and Madeira to their bases, up their two glaciers, to the Pole and to the endings: Amundsen's cables from Hobart and Scott's last camp. Antarctic pins mark glaciers and bays, not camps, and the ice has moved since.
Timeline & locations
What do the location labels mean?
- Exact
- The pin marks the actual place where it happened or was filmed.
- Approximate
- The right area — a town, park or district — but not a precise spot.
Terra Nova sailed from Cardiff on 15 June 1910, bound for the Antarctic. Scott was not aboard: detained by expedition business, he followed on a faster passenger liner and joined the ship in South Africa. Cardiff later marked the voyage with a lighthouse in the lake at Roath Park, built in 1915 and containing a scale model of the Terra Nova, to commemorate Captain Scott's ill-fated voyage from the city in 1910.
Location precision: The ship sailed from Cardiff itself; the pin marks the memorial lighthouse in Roath Park.
Visitor guidance: The lighthouse stands in the lake at Roath Park.
Sources
- Roath Park
- Locator:
- History
- Terra Nova Expedition
- Locator:
- Departure; Beardmore; Pole; Last march; Search party
- Roath Park
Madeira was Fram's last port of call, and until it was time to leave, Amundsen had led even his crew to believe they were embarking on an Arctic drift. On the afternoon of 9 September 1910, in Funchal Roads, he called all hands on deck and told them his decision, a year old, to make for the South. The Funchal papers had already guessed the South Pole, but the story went no further. He also cabled Scott, in Melbourne: "Beg leave to inform you Fram proceeding Antarctic Amundsen."
Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMap32.65000, -16.91667Visitability not confirmedLocation precision: Fram lay at anchor in the roads off the town; the pin marks Funchal.
Sources
- The South Pole: an account of the Norwegian Antarctic expedition in the Fram, 1910-12
- Locator:
- Chapters on Funchal, the Butcher's Shop, the Pole and Hobart
- Robert Falcon Scott
- Locator:
- Terra Nova Expedition
- Amundsen's South Pole expedition
- Locator:
- Madeira; Bay of Whales; Axel Heiberg Glacier; Pole; Hobart
- The South Pole: an account of the Norwegian Antarctic expedition in the Fram, 1910-12
Scott built his second expedition's headquarters at Cape Evans and renamed the cape for his second in command, Lieutenant Edward Evans. His journal calls the hut "in every respect the finest that has ever been erected in the Polar regions", 50 feet long by 25 wide. Twenty-five men of the shore party wintered here in 1911, and from here Scott and his men set out on the ultimately fatal trek to the South Pole. The hut and its contents are remarkably well preserved today, thanks to the cold.
Sources
- Scott's Last Expedition, Volume I: the journals of Captain R. F. Scott
- Locator:
- Journal entries, February 1911 to March 1912
- Scott's Hut
- Locator:
- Use; Preservation
- Cape Evans
- Locator:
- History
- Scott's Last Expedition, Volume I: the journals of Captain R. F. Scott
Fram reached the Bay of Whales on 14 January 1911: the southernmost point in the Ross Sea a ship could penetrate, 60 nautical miles closer to the Pole than Scott's intended base at McMurdo Sound. Amundsen's hut was dubbed Framheim, "the home of Fram". On 3 February Terra Nova arrived unexpectedly, and Campbell and his officers breakfasted aboard Fram. Scott learned of it from Campbell's letter and decided the proper course was "to proceed exactly as though this had not happened". The bay itself is gone: an iceberg eliminated it in 1987.
Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMap-78.50000, -164.33333Visitability not confirmedLocation precision: The bay no longer exists; the pin marks where it lay.
Sources
- Scott's Last Expedition, Volume I: the journals of Captain R. F. Scott
- Locator:
- Journal entries, February 1911 to March 1912
- Amundsen's South Pole expedition
- Locator:
- Madeira; Bay of Whales; Axel Heiberg Glacier; Pole; Hobart
- Bay of Whales
- Locator:
- History
- Scott's Last Expedition, Volume I: the journals of Captain R. F. Scott
Unlike Scott, who would follow Shackleton's Beardmore route, Amundsen had to find his own way through the mountains. In November 1911 he discovered this glacier and named it for Consul Axel Heiberg, a Norwegian patron. At its summit, of 45 dogs that had made the ascent only 18 would go forward; the rest were killed for food. "There was depression and sadness in the air," he wrote, "we had grown so fond of our dogs." He named the place the Butcher's Shop. Beyond it lay the crevassed ground he called the Devil's Glacier.
Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMap-85.41667, -163.00000Visitability not confirmedLocation precision: The Butcher's Shop lay at the top of the glacier; the pin marks the glacier as a whole.
Sources
- The South Pole: an account of the Norwegian Antarctic expedition in the Fram, 1910-12
- Locator:
- Chapters on Funchal, the Butcher's Shop, the Pole and Hobart
- Axel Heiberg Glacier
- Locator:
- Discovery and name
- Amundsen's South Pole expedition
- Locator:
- Madeira; Bay of Whales; Axel Heiberg Glacier; Pole; Hobart
- The South Pole: an account of the Norwegian Antarctic expedition in the Fram, 1910-12
Shackleton had discovered and climbed the Beardmore in 1908, and Scott planned for twelve men in three groups to ascend it, hauling by hand. On 10 December 1911 his journal records the cost: "We sank above our finnesko everywhere, and in places nearly to our knees", and the pulling was "extraordinarily fatiguing". On the way home, Edgar Evans, one of the five chosen for the final trek to the Pole, died around the foot of the glacier on 17 February 1912.
Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMap-83.75000, 171.00000Visitability not confirmedLocation precision: Scott's camps stretched along the whole glacier; the pin marks the glacier as a whole.
Sources
- Scott's Last Expedition, Volume I: the journals of Captain R. F. Scott
- Locator:
- Journal entries, February 1911 to March 1912
- Beardmore Glacier
- Locator:
- Early exploration
- Terra Nova Expedition
- Locator:
- Departure; Beardmore; Pole; Last march; Search party
- Scott's Last Expedition, Volume I: the journals of Captain R. F. Scott
On 14 December 1911 Amundsen's five men planted the Norwegian flag together and named the plain King Haakon VII's Plateau. They pitched a tent, Polheim, as near the Pole as their observations allowed. Thirty-four days later Scott's party arrived, having found a black flag tied to a sledge bearer: "The Norwegians have forestalled us." Scott wrote: "Great God! this is an awful place and terrible enough for us to have laboured to it without the reward of priority." In the tent a note asked him to forward a letter to King Haakon.
Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMap-90.00000, 0.00000Visitability not confirmedLocation precision: Neither party stood exactly on the point, and the ice slowly moves; the pin marks the geographic Pole.
Sources
- Terra Nova Expedition
- Locator:
- Departure; Beardmore; Pole; Last march; Search party
- South Pole
- Locator:
- Amundsen's Tent
- Amundsen's South Pole expedition
- Locator:
- Madeira; Bay of Whales; Axel Heiberg Glacier; Pole; Hobart
- The South Pole: an account of the Norwegian Antarctic expedition in the Fram, 1910-12
- Locator:
- Chapters on Funchal, the Butcher's Shop, the Pole and Hobart
- Scott's Last Expedition, Volume I: the journals of Captain R. F. Scott
- Locator:
- Journal entries, February 1911 to March 1912
- Terra Nova Expedition
Fram left the Bay of Whales on 30 January 1912 for Hobart. She reached the Derwent River port on 7 March, and Amundsen went ashore with his cablegrams. He quickly learned there was as yet no news from Scott, and sent telegrams to his brother Leon, to Nansen and to King Haakon, briefly informing them of his success. King George V expressed particular pleasure that Amundsen's first port of call on his return had been on soil of the British Empire.
Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMap-42.88056, 147.32500Visitability not confirmedLocation precision: Amundsen's anchorage is not pinned; the pin marks the centre of Hobart.
Sources
- Amundsen's South Pole expedition
- Locator:
- Madeira; Bay of Whales; Axel Heiberg Glacier; Pole; Hobart
- The South Pole: an account of the Norwegian Antarctic expedition in the Fram, 1910-12
- Locator:
- Chapters on Funchal, the Butcher's Shop, the Pole and Hobart
- Amundsen's South Pole expedition
On the way home, by 20 March, Scott, Wilson and Bowers had struggled on to a point 11 miles south of One Ton Depot, and a fierce blizzard halted them. "Since the 21st we have had a continuous gale", Scott wrote on 29 March. Every day they were ready to start for the depot, but "outside the door of the tent it remains a scene of whirling drift". His last words: "It seems a pity, but I do not think I can write more." And then: "For God's sake look after our people." A search party found the tent, with the frozen bodies of the three men, on 12 November 1912.
Not pinned on the mapVisitability not confirmedLocation precision: The record places the tent only 11 miles (18 km) south of One Ton Depot, so the stop is left unpinned.
Sources
- Terra Nova Expedition
- Locator:
- Departure; Beardmore; Pole; Last march; Search party
- Scott's Last Expedition, Volume I: the journals of Captain R. F. Scott
- Locator:
- Journal entries, February 1911 to March 1912
- Terra Nova Expedition
Terra Nova arrived on 18 January 1913 to bring the expedition home. Before the final departure, a large wooden cross was erected overlooking Hut Point, inscribed with the five names of the dead and a line from Tennyson's Ulysses: "To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield". The cross in memory of Captain Scott and his polar companions still stands atop Observation Hill.
Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMap-77.85212, 166.69446Visitability not confirmedLocation precision: One source puts the cross on the slopes of the hill and another on top of it; the pin marks Observation Hill.
Sources
- Scott's Hut
- Locator:
- Use; Preservation
- Terra Nova Expedition
- Locator:
- Departure; Beardmore; Pole; Last march; Search party
- Scott's Hut