Real Journeys · Book
As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning: Spain 1935
In the summer of 1935 the young Laurie Lee left London for Spain with a violin and a single Spanish phrase. For a year he walked and played his way from Galicia to the Andalusian coast, sleeping under the open sky or in cheap posadas, welcomed even by the poorest villagers.
The route follows his memoir from Vigo through Zamora, Toledo, Tarifa and Málaga to Almuñécar, where he was rescued by a British destroyer as the Spanish Civil War began. Pins mark towns, not the roads he actually walked.
Timeline & locations
What do the location labels mean?
- Approximate
- The right area — a town, park or district — but not a precise spot.
In July 1935 Laurie Lee, a young violinist, landed at Vigo in Galicia. He had spent the previous year labouring in London and had picked up exactly one useful Spanish phrase: "Will you please give me a glass of water?" That was enough for him to decide on Spain. He scraped together a living by playing his violin outside cafés.
Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMap42.23700, -8.73300Visitability not confirmedLocation precision: Lee lands in Galicia and works around Vigo without a named spot; the pin marks the port.
Sources
- Laurie Lee
- Locator:
- Early life and works; Other works
- As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning
- Locator:
- Synopsis
- Laurie Lee
In Galicia Lee joined up with three young German musicians and went around Vigo with them. The group broke up outside Zamora, leaving him to walk on alone. Nights were spent in his blanket under the open sky or in cheap, rough posadas.
Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMap41.49889, -5.75556Visitability not confirmedLocation precision: The memoir says the musicians split up outside Zamora, not where; the pin marks the city.
Sources
- As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning
- Locator:
- Synopsis
- As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning
By August 1935 Lee had reached Toledo. Playing his violin there, he came across the South African poet Roy Campbell and his family, who invited him to stay in their house. The Campbells had settled in Toledo, and Lee recounts the meeting in the Toledo chapter of the book.
Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMap39.85667, -4.02444Visitability not confirmedLocation precision: The Campbells' house is not named in the sources; the pin marks the city of Toledo.
Sources
- As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning
- Locator:
- Synopsis
- Roy Campbell (poet)
- Locator:
- Life in Spain
- As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning
Lee turned west along the Guadalquivir and reached the sea by September, then headed east along the bare coastal shelf of Andalusia. On the way he heard talk of war in Abyssinia. He arrived at Tarifa, with another stop in Algeciras.
Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMap36.01400, -5.60600Visitability not confirmedLocation precision: The memoir gives the town, not a particular street or building; the pin marks Tarifa.
Sources
- As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning
- Locator:
- Synopsis
- As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning
Lee set off for Málaga, stopping in Gibraltar on the way. In his last days in Málaga his violin broke. He had also tried a new line of work as a guide to British tourists, but local guides curtailed it. Then a young German came to the rescue and gave him a violin, so he could go on playing.
Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMap36.71944, -4.42000Visitability not confirmedLocation precision: The sources place these events in Málaga without an address; the pin marks the city.
Sources
- As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning
- Locator:
- Synopsis
- As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning
In the winter of 1935 Lee decided to stay in Almuñécar, which earlier editions disguise as "Castillo", and found work in a hotel. He drank in the village bar with Manolo, the hotel waiter. In mid-July 1936 war broke out, and a British destroyer from Gibraltar arrived to pick up British subjects on the coast; Lee was taken on board. In 1988 the townspeople erected a statue in his honour.
Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMap36.73333, -3.68333Visitability not confirmedLocation precision: The sources do not name the hotel or bar; the pin marks the town of Almuñécar.
Sources
- Laurie Lee
- Locator:
- Early life and works; Other works
- As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning
- Locator:
- Synopsis
- Almuñécar
- Locator:
- History
- Laurie Lee