Skip to main content
Mapped Chronicles

Real Journeys · Book

As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning: Spain 1935

In the summer of 1935 the young Laurie Lee left London for Spain with a violin and a single Spanish phrase. For a year he walked and played his way from Galicia to the Andalusian coast, sleeping under the open sky or in cheap posadas, welcomed even by the poorest villagers.

Mapped by Mapped Chronicles editors6 locationsCountries: SpainGPX

Timeline & locations

What do the location labels mean?
Approximate
The right area — a town, park or district — but not a precise spot.
  1. In July 1935 Laurie Lee, a young violinist, landed at Vigo in Galicia. He had spent the previous year labouring in London and had picked up exactly one useful Spanish phrase: "Will you please give me a glass of water?" That was enough for him to decide on Spain. He scraped together a living by playing his violin outside cafés.

    Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMapVisitability not confirmed

    Location precision: Lee lands in Galicia and works around Vigo without a named spot; the pin marks the port.

    Sources

  2. In Galicia Lee joined up with three young German musicians and went around Vigo with them. The group broke up outside Zamora, leaving him to walk on alone. Nights were spent in his blanket under the open sky or in cheap, rough posadas.

    Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMapVisitability not confirmed

    Location precision: The memoir says the musicians split up outside Zamora, not where; the pin marks the city.

  3. By August 1935 Lee had reached Toledo. Playing his violin there, he came across the South African poet Roy Campbell and his family, who invited him to stay in their house. The Campbells had settled in Toledo, and Lee recounts the meeting in the Toledo chapter of the book.

    Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMapVisitability not confirmed

    Location precision: The Campbells' house is not named in the sources; the pin marks the city of Toledo.

    Sources

  4. Lee turned west along the Guadalquivir and reached the sea by September, then headed east along the bare coastal shelf of Andalusia. On the way he heard talk of war in Abyssinia. He arrived at Tarifa, with another stop in Algeciras.

    Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMapVisitability not confirmed

    Location precision: The memoir gives the town, not a particular street or building; the pin marks Tarifa.

  5. Lee set off for Málaga, stopping in Gibraltar on the way. In his last days in Málaga his violin broke. He had also tried a new line of work as a guide to British tourists, but local guides curtailed it. Then a young German came to the rescue and gave him a violin, so he could go on playing.

    Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMapVisitability not confirmed

    Location precision: The sources place these events in Málaga without an address; the pin marks the city.

  6. In the winter of 1935 Lee decided to stay in Almuñécar, which earlier editions disguise as "Castillo", and found work in a hotel. He drank in the village bar with Manolo, the hotel waiter. In mid-July 1936 war broke out, and a British destroyer from Gibraltar arrived to pick up British subjects on the coast; Lee was taken on board. In 1988 the townspeople erected a statue in his honour.

    Open area inGoogle MapsApple MapsOrganic MapsOpenStreetMapVisitability not confirmed

    Location precision: The sources do not name the hotel or bar; the pin marks the town of Almuñécar.

    Sources

Spotted a mistake?

Places close, sources disagree, and we get things wrong. If something on this route is off, tell us and we'll fix it.

Suggest a correction

More in Real Journeys

Browse Real Journeys
Real JourneysApproximate

Michael Palin: Around the World in 80 Days, 1988

In autumn 1988 the BBC sent Michael Palin round the globe in the footsteps of Jules Verne's Phileas Fogg, with no aircraft allowed. It began and ended at the Reform Club in London and ran from 25 September to 12 December. The route follows nine moments from his own day-by-day captions and diary excerpts: Venice, the Pyramids, a dhow from Dubai to Bombay, Hong Kong, a train to Shanghai, the Pacific, an Aspen balloon and a locked door in Pall Mall. Pins mark cities and landmarks; the real line of travel ran between them.

9 locations4/9 visitable
Real JourneysApproximate

In Patagonia: Chatwin's Road South to the Sloth Cave

In 1974 Bruce Chatwin set out for Patagonia to find his own "piece of brontosaurus": a scrap of skin sent to his grandmother by her cousin, Charley Milward the sailor. Six months of travel became In Patagonia, the book that made his name. This route follows the quest from a natural history museum in La Plata through the Welsh coast, Butch Cassidy's cabin and Milward's house in Punta Arenas, to the cave where the skin was found. Chatwin's tales were not always literal, so most pins mark areas, not scenes.

5 locations3/5 visitable
Real JourneysApproximate

Long Way Round: London to New York

In the spring of 2004 Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman set out from London on motorcycles, heading east for New York with cinematographer Claudio von Planta. The ride ran from 14 April to 29 July and crossed twelve countries and 18,887 miles. The route follows the highlights: a church built of bones in the Czech Republic, a UNICEF project in Mongolia, the mud of the Zilov Gap, the Road of Bones to Magadan, Mount Rushmore and the ride into New York. Pins mark places and areas; the real line of travel ran between them.

7 locations3/7 visitable
All routes