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Before Sunrise: One Night in Vienna

On 16 June 1994 an American, Jesse, and a French student, Céline, meet on a train from Budapest. He talks her into getting off with him in Vienna, and with no money for a hotel they walk the city all night, talking about love, death and everything else until his flight leaves in the morning. Richard Linklater's 1995 film was shot entirely in Vienna and began a trilogy that continued in Before Sunset and Before Midnight.

Contains story spoilers.

Mapped by Mapped Chronicles editors9 locationsCountries: AustriaGPX

Timeline & locations

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  1. Jesse has a cheap flight home from Vienna the next morning and no money for a hotel; Céline is on her way back to university in Paris. As the train pulls in, he talks her into getting off with him and spending the night walking around the city. They step out of the Westbahnhof, at the top of Mariahilfer Straße, which until the new Hauptbahnhof opened in 2015 was Vienna's main terminus for trains to the west. In the morning the story comes back here for the goodbye.

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  2. On a footbridge over railway tracks they meet two young actors promoting their play about a cow, who invite them to the show. The film makes it look as if the bridge stands next to the station, but the Zollamtssteg is on the other side of the city, crossing the Wien river just before it flows into the Danube Canal, near Wien Mitte station. The green steel girders are still there; the wooden planks the couple walk on have since been replaced with asphalt.

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  3. In a record shop crammed with vinyl, Jesse and Céline squeeze into a tiny listening booth to play Kath Bloom's "Come Here" and try very hard not to look at each other — one of the most quoted scenes in the film. The shop is Teuchtler, at Windmühlgasse 10 in the Mariahilf district, a second-hand record dealer in business since 1948 and a haven for vinyl collectors, with everything from classic jazz to new releases.

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  4. Céline wants to show Jesse a place she remembers visiting as a teenager: a tiny graveyard on the Danube where the river's unidentified dead were buried. The Friedhof der Namenlosen lies at the Alberner Hafen docks on the edge of the city, and most of its rows of black iron crosses carry only a number. The grave Céline remembers, of a girl named Elizabeth, is invented for the film. It is a quiet, sad spot, much harder to reach than the film suggests.

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    Visitor guidance: The cemetery is far out in Simmering, beyond an industrial port area; plan the trip by public transport in advance.

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  5. At sunset they ride the giant Ferris wheel at the entrance of the Prater amusement park, and at the top of the slow turn they kiss for the first time. The Riesenrad was built in 1897 by British engineers and, at 64.75 metres, was the world's tallest working Ferris wheel from 1920 until 1985. Linklater's choice is also a nod to The Third Man, which staged its famous meeting between Harry Lime and Holly Martins on the same wheel.

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    Visitor guidance: The wheel runs year-round at the Prater, near Praterstern station; tickets are sold at the entrance hall.

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  6. Back in the old town, an elderly palm reader approaches them at a café table and reads Céline's future, while Jesse makes no secret of his scepticism. The scene was shot outside the Kleines Café, a small bar on Franziskanerplatz, a little square beside the Franciscan church a few minutes from St Stephen's Cathedral. The café's owner, the actor Hanno Pöschl, also appears at the start of the film as the quarrelling husband on the train.

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  7. They slip into a quiet church, where Jesse describes a simple Quaker wedding he once saw. The exterior is Maria am Gestade, a Gothic church built between 1394 and 1414, with a delicate openwork spire above a steep flight of steps at the edge of the old town — another location from The Third Man. The interior, though, belongs to a different building: the Baroque Mariahilfer Kirche on Mariahilfer Straße, near the record shop.

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  8. In an old coffee house, each pretends to phone a friend and tells them about the other — the only way either can admit what is happening. It is Café Sperl on Gumpendorfer Straße, founded in 1880 and still furnished like the great cafés of the Ringstraße era: parquet floors, Thonet bentwood chairs, marble tables, chandeliers and billiard tables. It is one of the best-preserved traditional coffee houses in Vienna, and it turns up again in A Dangerous Method.

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    Visitor guidance: Café Sperl is open daily as an ordinary coffee house; order a Melange and stay as long as you like.

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  9. As the sky lightens, Jesse recites lines from W. H. Auden's "As I Walked Out One Evening" on the raised terrace of the Albertina, beside the equestrian statue at its corner. Then it is back to the Westbahnhof, where they skip the plan to never meet again and promise to return to that platform in six months. Whether they did became the question of Before Sunset, released nine years later. The Albertina palace is now one of Vienna's great art museums.

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